The fast fashion image problem

• Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein launches four-part design competition on social media and app

• The brand has taken further steps to improve its image amid criticism of its environmental record and business practices

• Some famous judges who should be on the show have been criticized on social media for partnering with Shein

In the fashion industry, the words Shein and design are rarely used in the same sentence, at least not in a flattering way. The Chinese fast fashion giant is known to algorithmically pump thousands of inexpensive outfits that are inspired by every trend online. While this is a winning formula with consumers, this business model has not endeared Shein in the industry, especially the growing number of designers who claim the brand has replicated their styles as a little too close. Shein didn’t show too much public concern over this review, allowing his staggering growth to speak for itself.

How to explain the Shein X 100K Challenge, then? The four-part web series will honor one of 30 emerging designers, and the jury is made up of well-known fashion names, including stylist Law Roach, designer Christian Siriano and former J.Crew Creative Director Jenna Lyons. Shein’s intentions are likely twofold: The show will air on social media and the company’s app, potentially attracting new audiences, who could then be tempted by the rock-bottom prices and smart rewards program. the brand. The competition also provides an alternative narrative to distract attention from Shein’s growing image issues, including allegations of plagiarism, concerns about the brand’s environmental impact, and the lack of transparency about working conditions in her. factories. Shein has a steep hill to climb; Lyons, Roach and Siriano have all received a flood of negative comments on social media since announcing their involvement in the contest last week.

The bottom line: Shein has to prove that it’s more than a commodity if he is to survive in the long term. Design collaborations have done wonders for H&M’s image, after all. But as the Forever21 and Topshop bankruptcies show, there is always faster, cheaper fashion waiting behind the scenes.

Watch out for the gap

• Gap Inc. Reports Second Quarter Results August 26

• The company saw strong sales at Old Navy and Athleta and took steps to relaunch Banana Republic and Gap.

• Kanye West has been promoting some Yeezy Gap items, but a release date remains unknown

Gap Inc. is on a roll. Its biggest brand, Old Navy, likely benefited from heavy back-to-school spending and grabbed the headlines last week for its plan to offer all women’s clothing up to size 30, rather than offering extended sizes as a separate category. The athlete reaches an Olympic peak; one brand ambassador, Allyson Felix, became the most decorated American athlete of all time with her 11th medal in Tokyo, and another, Simone Biles, is embarking on a new career as a mental health advocate. The trajectory of the rest of the company’s brand portfolio is less certain. Banana Republic is showing signs of life with a well-received vintage collection and upcoming collaborations, but its immediate future depends on workers returning to the office this fall. Then there’s Gap himself, who is on hold until his collaboration with Kanye West hits stores. The rapper’s album tour serves a dual function of hype for the collection, although so far only the quilted coats are available for pre-order.

The bottom line: Gap Inc. has spent the last year making big changes in its four brands. In the months to come, we’ll see if they were the right ones.

Make plans

• Fashion week programs have been released for New York, London and Milan, and Paris is set to follow suit soon.

• Each mainly presents physical performances for the first time since the pandemic, although international participation is likely to be limited

• Host cities require attendees of indoor events to present proof of vaccination, although enforcement mechanisms are still being developed

Fashion month is just around the corner, and on paper, at least, the industry seems to have figured out how to deal with the pandemic. Most shows will feature a conventional track in front of a live audience, although the crowds are likely to be smaller. This does not necessarily mean that it will be more difficult to score an invitation; travel restrictions and concerns about the delta variant will likely prevent many publishers, buyers, and influencers from risking international travel. Proof of vaccination is required to attend indoor events in most cities hosting Fashion Weeks in September, either by event planners, local authorities, or both. It remains to be seen how these mandates will be implemented. Some brands will no doubt be tempted to pass up the odd anti-vax celebrity or model, although it can be hoped that a collective desire to suppress the spread of Covid-19 outweighs the lure of a animated first row.

The bottom line: As the rapid spread of the delta variant has shown this summer, a return to normal can be illusory. Brands planning lavish fall events would be wise to have contingency plans on hand.

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